Day 5: Setubal & Évora

Setubal

It was the Romans who started one of the region's most traditional activities — gathering salt and preserving food in salting tanks whose remains still exist on the Tróia Peninsula. Setubal is a busy working port and major commercial fishing center that boasts an extensive history and seafaring heritage. Setubal may be industrial, but it is situated in a region of immense beauty. To the east are the stunning hills of Serra da Arrabida and the idyllic beaches of the Portinho da Arrábida, while to the south of the Sado Estuary are the paradise beaches of the Troia Peninsula.

Setubal should not be mistaken as a pristine beach resort or a manicured tourist destination; this is a hardworking port city full of character and grit. The city does make for an interesting base to explore the region, and there are plenty of day trips that could easily fill a weeklong trip. Often Setubal is combined as part of a tour or as a secondary destination (e.g. Lisbon and Setubal or Cascais and Setubal). 

There is a lot to see in Setubal, and the main highlights are:

The Historic Center

With its narrow alleys of shopping streets, and grand plazas such as the Praça de Bocage and the Mosteiro de Jesus, the first earliest of Manueline architecture (late-Gothic) in Portugal. The city is a great destination to experience typical Portuguese daily life. There is the lively Mercado do Livramento market (Tues-Sun), the social cafes on the Praça de Bocage, and the delicious seafood restaurants close to the fishing harbor. Setubal also has the added advantage of not being that famous, so it never gets overrun with coach loads of tourists. A typical day trip to Setubal would visit the market, the historic center, the waterfront, and the fishing harbor and then climb up to the castle. For your day trip, it is very easy to travel to Setubal; there is a direct train from Lisbon or a regular bus service from Sesimbra.

Mercado do Livramento (Fish Market)

‘Mercado do Livramento‘ is located at the center of this beautiful small town. On the Av. Luísa Todi 157, next to a popular supermarket ‘Pingo Doce’. Established in 1930, a unique architecture with cast iron columns, and huge panels of tiles inside represents a long history with the Art Deco style outside. The pink-painted large building is easy to notice. A lively and chaotic experience of authentic Portugal. The Mercado do Livramento is one of the best-covered markets in Portugal. The market comprises over 130 stalls selling fresh produce through to local handicrafts, but the main specialty is the large fish market. The fish market is a chaotic and lively affair, where the fresh catch from Setubal’s fishing fleet is sold by loud fishwives, and savvy chefs come to secure the finest cuts of fish. The market (Tues-Sun) is open from 7 am to 2 pm, but most of the fish is sold by 11. The market is closed on Mondays. On the entrance to the market are beautiful tile paintings depicting the traditional agricultural life of the Setubal region, and are worth a visit even if the market is closed.

Évora (Private Walking Experience)

This adventure invites you to explore the medieval city of Évora, classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage City, due to its excellent preservation over the centuries. An open-air museum according to UNESCO since 1986, its walls have been guarding the streets and buildings practically unaltered throughout the centuries. The fascination with this walking tour starts with its impressive walls keeping the "eborenses" safe for a long time now. Inside them, you are awaited by traces of Roman times, medieval buildings, palaces, and convents which are witness to the golden era of Portugal (15th and 16th centuries). Visit the enigmatic church of St. Francis and its Chapel of the Bones. Continue up the narrow streets of the old town reaching the Giraldo square where the Inquisition once had its headquarters. Visit the millennium-old Roman Temple and visit the interior of the 13th-century cathedral. In the 16th century, Évora thrived with culture and tradition in its university as much as it still does today. Finish your walking tour with the wonderful 16th-century university, once a prestigious Jesuit college.

We visit the following monuments:

• Historic center with medieval white streets.

• Royal Palace (exterior only visit. The interior is used for temporary exhibitions).

• City Garden

• St. Francis Church and Chapel of Bones

• Geraldo Square

• Gothic cathedral of the XIII century

• Roman temple from the first century AD

Accommodations: Torre de Palma Wine Hotel

Dating back to the 14th century, this imposing white-washed house, with a central tower and a bold trim of yellow, overlooks its fields of vineyards and Lusitano horses. There are 18 attractively decorated rooms, mainly housed in the former stables and worker’s cottages, and a restaurant serving regional fare.

History and Story

Dating from 1338, the Torre de Palma Wine Hotel was born in 2014. Inspired by the lifestyle of the distinguished Basilii family (former inhabitants of the nearby Torre de Palma Roman ruins), and Alentejo traditions, the hotel was conceived to be your home in this region of southern Portugal. Torre de Palma Wine Hotel is a 5-star project devoted to Alentejo wine and to offering genuine experiences. It features the typical Alentejo architecture: white-washed walls and inviting, comfortable rooms. The hotel’s 18 rooms and suites boast elegant interiors that combine contemporary design with traditional pieces, in perfect harmony with the natural surroundings. This boutique hotel includes indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a spa, restaurant and bar. As well as these facilities, the hotel offers a screening room, a chapel, horse riding arena, organic vegetable garden, orchard, vine, a little olive grove, a small forest, a store with regional products and private parking.

This charm hotel at the heart of the Alentejo wine region would not exist if it were not for its core identity: wine production and, consequently, wine tourism. The magical winery is Torre de Palma’s ex-libris and the symbol of the hotel’s wine culture. In addition to an extensive vineyard area, there is also a room filled with wine barrels, a wine tasting room, wine production area and numerous leisure and cultural activities organized around Alentejo wines.

Torre de Palma is approximately a 2-hour drive from Lisbon. Monforte is 10 minutes away by car, while Portalegre, Estremoz and Elvas are just 30 minutes away. The city of Évora, whose historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is 1 hour away.

Location

Set in the countryside, a short walk from the ruins of an old Roman villa, now an important archaeological site, and just half an hour by car to beautiful Estremoz, whose medieval upper town is dominated by a 13th century marble keep.

Style and Character

Exteriors are spotless white and a yellow trim, while spacious interiors bring quirky paintings, mirrors and contemporary lights to give 21st century warmth to the whole. Interior designer Rosarinho Gabriel has respected the long history of the building by inserting regional artifacts which add to the sense of place.

Service and Facilities

The service is absolutely excellent with a genuine desire to please. Facilities abound from the spa with treatments using Darphin and citrus oil, to bicycles to borrow and Lusitano horses to ride. There is an indoor and outdoor swimming pool and a winery to explore with tasting of the award-winning wines upon request.

Rooms

The majority of the 18 rooms are housed in the low-lying former stables and worker’s cottages which face the main house across an internal courtyard. The master suite and a double room are located in the main house. All the rooms are differently decorated, from four-poster beds topped with crowns to walls of book-lined wallpaper to rugs and cushions on deep sofas atop wooden floors. Bathrooms have underfloor heating and Castelbel amenities. All rooms have coffee machines.

Food and Drink

There is a fun bar with swings to sit on offering a selection of tapas from baked monte da vinha soft cheese, nuts and Torre de Palma honey to the local baked blood and lard sausage to Caesar salad. Basili Restaurant serves gourmet regional fare such as pennyroyal and coriander codfish with quails egg, Alentejo bread and black olive powder or black pork with sweet potato migas (a bread stew). Breakfast is a buffet with local hams, cheeses and fresh fruits. Eggs are available to order.

Activities

This hotel is located in the heart of the Alentejo wine lands. Therefore the big strength is the connection to the wine and the magical winery. We also develop programs with other wineries so the guest can have a deep wine tour of the region. Unique experiences await our guests. Riding a Lusitano horse, star gazing, walking and hiking, cooking workshops, birdwatching or hot air ballooning over the Alentejo plains. A special moment is the sunset wine moment at the hotel’s tower.

Day 6: Private Cooking Experience

Spend your morning and afternoon at leisure, with a break in between for a private cooking experience.

Private Cooking Experience

This is a special opportunity to meet one of the chefs living in the Alentejo and explore all the richer flavors of the local gastronomy. Learn how to cook some of the local and traditional dishes with a few twists of innovation and contemporary taste. Based on the traditions of the Alentejo region, a larger rural area, strongly connected to the land and its customs and traditions. Many are those who still live in country estates and cherish a farm-to-table lifestyle in their daily diet. Already holding your glass of wine, you will learn about the elements needed to cook a wonderful "alentejana" meal and bring them to the kitchen. 

The kitchen combines traditional architecture and decor with all the modern utilities in a cozy and intimate atmosphere. There, a few local flavors will be served as appetizers and also conversation topics, because this region is also known for its cheeses and fantastic smoked meats. Your journey continues as you follow the traditional recipe, while the chef is cooking and explaining what you will be prepared based on the best regional produce. A relaxing experience where you will learn about the culture in Alentejo through the food, wine, and conversations that will flow with your chef.

Private Dinner at Casa do Forno

The Casa do Forno, which can be translated to House of the wood-fired oven, is the ideal place for themed and more intimate celebratory dinner. The wood-fired oven is the central element. Traditionally, this was the oven used by the community near Torre de Palam to bake their bread for the week. The oven is a massive structure and due to its size was able to bake at the same time the bread for all the members of the rural community. Today the Hotel promotes special events around the cooking of traditional and contemporary meals based on the ancient techniques of the wood-fired oven. The atmosphere is set for a cozy country-style dinner, surrounded by objects from the old times of agriculture. The curated experience is completed with a unique tasting menu created by Chef Miguel Laffan.

It was in the Alentejo that the Chef discovered the beauty of the natural landscapes, meadows, and castles, which inspired him to win the region's first Michelin star. This strong connection and knowledge of the Alentejo led him to create PALMA - a family experience of sharing and well-being in which the genuineness and generosity of the land are what stand out. Here, in Alto Alentejo, he found local producers of great passion, around homemade sausages, pure cheeses, and carefully selected grazing animals.

Day 7: Visit Evoramonte, Estremoz & Elvas

You can make some stops to visit the charming little village of Evoramonte and the little towns of Estremoz and Elvas.

Estremoz

A white and noble city, Estremoz can be divided into two separate areas that testify to its different stages of development: the group of medieval houses near the castle and, outside the city walls, the modern town. Estremoz has a rich cultural heritage, in which the major feature is the castle with its medieval walls and the former thirteenth-century citadel, which now houses the Pousada de Portugal Rainha Santa Isabel. Estremoz became particularly famous for the quarrying and trading of its high-quality white marble. The region makes a 90% contribution towards Portugal's being the world's second-largest exporter of marble. Equally famous are the region's red clays, which gave rise to the traditional figures that are found in all the city's craft shops. 

During your visit, it is worth going up the hill of the old castle (which was transformed in 1967 into a Pousada) and taking in the views of the Alentejo plains. These were the ruins of the ancient palace where Queen Isabel de Aragon used to stay when coming to Estremoz. This town records the story of her life and in particular the “Miracle of the Roses”. The fable tells that when carrying money for the poor hidden in her apron the King stopped her and upon his request, she opened the apron to reveal only some roses.

One of the ex libris of the city of Estremoz is the traditional market that takes place every Saturday morning in Rossio Marquês de Pombal. The square becomes filled with fruits, vegetables, cereals, olive oil, cheeses, olives, sausages and animals. These products are fresh and can be purchased directly from the producer. Alongside this market, there is also a Fair of Antiquities. Furniture, embroidery, ceramics, porcelain, copper, books, disks, coins, postcards, stamps, old granola, and agricultural utensils are just a few examples of what can be found at this fair.

Evoramonte

The picturesque and delightful Evoramonte (or Evora Monte) parish is located between the beautiful cities of Evora and Estremoz. Once of big geographical and military importance, this Alentejo village with walls that still protect its residents on the mountaintop feels like an old warrior who patiently waits for visitors. With numerous stories to tell them. If you decide to go up by car, park it outside the walls near Porta de São Sebastião. This way, you will be able to enter the village like the Portuguese have done over the centuries. The place is small but beautiful and unique. Its size is a good reason to go through every street and corner paying attention to details. They come up everywhere in Evoramonte: an ornament, a door or window in Alentejo style, an inscription on the wall, a lazy cat resting on a strategic spot. 

Wherever you walk in Evora Monte, you will find simple white houses traditionally painted with white lime. And, many times, exhibiting the typical skirting boards near the ground, windows, and panels. Of yellow and blue colors, Alentejo style. Walking around the whole area inside Evoramonte walls, you will see the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (church) near the cemetery.

In Misericórdia Street, wider and where the access to the cistern is, a few benches invite you to have a break. Closer to the walls, here, like in any other part of the village, the distant horizon reminds us why the defensive castle was built in this location. Further ahead is the small Igreja da Misericórdia (church) and the connecting Hospital da Misericórdia. But the obvious highlight in Evora Monte is the Tower, the ducal palace, at the highest point of the hill. On the main street (Santa Maria) you can see the house where you can take your souvenirs from Evoramonte (apart from the photos, of course). It is called Celeiro Comum (Common Granary) and dates back to 1642. That was when it was founded by charter from King João IV after the population requested it to have cereal stocks. Nowadays, it houses an extremely good handicrafts shop.

Elvas

Located close to the border, Elvas fought to maintain the independence of Portugal and its history. By doing so, it became an example for all mankind. Upon our arrival in the city, we are greeted by a magnificent Aqueduct extending a distance of 7 km and consisting of 843 arches, constructed by the same man who built the Tower of Belém, in Lisbon, architect Francisco de Arruda. Its size and numbers are as impressive as what we will discover ahead of us. We have, in fact, just entered the largest bulwarked fortification in the world, with its defensive structures in the shape of a star that enclose a perimeter of nearly 10 km, which are a unique testimony to the development of military strategy up to the 19th century. The fortifications were very important in the battles with Spain for the independence of Portugal in the mid-17th century, and served as a base for General Wellington during the Napoleonic Wars in the early 19th century.

Today, the fortifications of Elvas are a World Heritage site. The military section that is preserved today is made up of the Islamic and Medieval walls and the ring of walls from the 17th century influenced by the Dutch style of Cosmander, plus the Forte de Santa Luzia (17th century), the Forte da Graça (18th century) and three small fortifications from the 19th century São Mamede, São Pedro and São Domingos. If we were birds, we would see the surprising design of these structures on the ground, which we can only comprehend in aerial photographs of or guess at when we visit the monuments and view the surrounding landscape.

In the heart of Elvas, the area of the Castle is the oldest part of the city. From there to the Praça da República square, where the old Cathedral is located, today the Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, we pass by the Domínicas Church, with its original octagonal floor plan, past the Manueline pillory and the Torre Fernandina. Along these streets, it is easy to identify the arches that served as the old entries through the walls. We can also visit other important monuments, such as the São Domingos Church, the Military Museum and the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, and two museums that mustn’t be missed: the modern Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Photography João Carpinteiro, where we travel back in time to the earliest days of this art, and find a camera from 1898 and proofs dated 1860.

With its history of battles and bravery, Elvas is today a quiet city, where we are well received and offered regional delicacies such as migas com entrecosto (sautée of breadcrumbs and garlic with spare ribs), ensopado de Borrego (lamb stew), or carne de porco à alentejana (Alentejo-style pork with clams). When it comes to sweets, there’s no resisting the famous ameixas d’ Elvas (preserved plums), the perfect accompaniment to sericaia (baked dessert made of eggs, sugar, milk and cinnamon), not to mention the traditional sweets azevias (sweet pumpkin pockets), nogados (dough fritters), enxovalhadas (lemon and cinnamon-flavored cakes) and filhós (Portuguese doughnuts).

Wine Blending Experience

Wine Blending is an experience in which participants are challenged to create a blend of their own with wine from different deposits and barrels from the Torre de Palma winery. In the end, they are also challenged to personalize their label and take a completely personalized wine home. This activity also includes a visit to the Torre de Palma winery with an explanation of the wines and different grape varieties to create the best blend.

Enjoy this unique opportunity to create your blend, based on your taste and knowledge about wines. Don't worry, a wine expert will be with you during the entire process to make sure you will take advantage of your time exploring all the textures, colors, and aromas from each of the wine samples.

Day 8: Fatima

Pilgrimage Catholic Site of Fatima

The apparitions of Fatima have developed immensely the local town into one of the largest centers of Marian cult in the world. The major manifestations of devotees are held on May 13 and 13 October (the Procession of candles takes place on day 12, and the Farewell procession takes place on day 13, thus ending the celebrations). Visit the shrine of Our Lady of Fatima: This Marian pilgrimage center evokes the apparitions of Our Lady to three Shepherd children Lucia, Francisco, and Jacinta, which occurred in 1917 and were recognized in 1930. The site was a country ground called Cova da Iria and belonged to Lucia's parents, who later donated it to the sanctuary. It was here that the first appearance took place. The sanctuary includes the Basilica, the square of the prayers, the chapel of the apparitions, the Church of the Holy Trinity, and the pyre where people burn candles asking for blessings.

Accommodations: Luz Charming Houses Boutique Guesthouses

Luz Houses is the result of sweet love and the desire to build a special and unique place! Here, every house has a story, each tree keeps a secret and every stone invites us to get lost where the past, present and future play with each other in harmony. Inspired by the traditional architecture of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the small village is hidden in a mystical forest where, on clear nights, we can hear the echo of the songs of Fátima's Shrine.

Here we stroll unhurriedly, on meditative and leisurely walks, we return to the past and we play marbles and the spinning top. On the walls, we look for messages and, in the middle of the garden, you may find a small cave that awakens your senses. The return to our origins, the whisper of the leaves kissed by the wind and the secrets so well kept, make this unique heaven the perfect place to find balance between body, mind and soul. Upon entering the small village of terracotta color, walk a path of stone slabs that at nightfall is illuminated by small lights hanging from the trees - it takes us to "Mãe Casa" (Mother House). Open the door and let yourself be filled with the aroma of wild flowers. A bicycle will give you a welcome, inviting you to ring the bell to call the host of the village, which will make everything you need to feel at home and embark on an interior and relaxing trip.

Discover our grocery filled with local products that delight us with the freshness of the smell of the earth and that you can use to cook your meals. Be sure to try the local cuisine recipes we have for you! Here everyone gathers in the morning for breakfast where you can taste the best of what is done in the region. At the fireplace you can drink hot coffee and at the honesty bar you can enjoy a good wine or craft liquor.

The Mother-House

Walk around the Motherhouse and find our lovely grocery store with local products that delight us with the freshness of the smell of the earth. Don’t forget to look for a special little gift for that unique person in the world... If you are looking at Luz Houses in a more professional capacity, such as organizing meetings or other events, we can adapt one of our two spaces with the necessary equipment to carry out your tasks and hold meetings, formal or informal. All spaces have free wifi.

Wellness/Spa

In our Natural Cave we favor aromatherapy and herbal medicine, using our local flora, passed from generation to generation. Let yourself be surprised by the surroundings and the cave's magic gracefully created by nature. Feel the energy and vibration of the natural cave which gracefully lines up in unison and in balance with the universe. The Cave is available by appointment and is open daily, from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M.

Day 9: Exploring Nazaré & São Martinho do Porto

Nazaré

Nazaré beach, with its mild climate and natural beauty, has one of the most ancient traditions connected to fishing in Portugal. The long sandy half-moon shaped beach, which is also the town’s sea front, is known for its grandeur and for the brightly colored awnings that decorate the white sandy beaches, contrasting with the blue of the water.

This is the beach in Portugal that retains the more colorful fishing traditions, and it’s not uncommon to encounter fishmongers who still wear the traditional seven skirts. At the end of the afternoon on Saturdays during the summer months, don’t miss sitting on the seawall to watch the fascinating “Arte Xávega” (Drag Nets) spectacle, in which nets laden with fish arrive from the sea and the women scream out their wares for sale. If you don’t understand the words, don’t worry, they often use codes that only they know.

Facing the sea on the right, you will see an impressive headland. This is Sítio, which provides one of the most famous views of the Portuguese coast. It is a 318 meter rock face with a sheer drop to the sea, and is reached on foot by the bravest, or by going up the funicular. At the top sits the Ermida da Memória chapel, famous for the legend of the miracle that Our Lady made to prevent the horse of the nobleman, D. Fuas Roupinho, leaping over the precipice. True or not, the Suberco Belvedere shows the imprint left in the rock by one of the horse’s hooves that foggy morning in 1182. Sítio also houses the Shrine to Our Lady of Nazaré and not far away, the Dr. Joaquim Manso Museum for more details about the traditions of Nazaré.

These days, Nazaré’s major attractions are the waves and surfing, thanks to the "Nazaré Canyon", a submarine geomorphological phenomenon that allows the formation of perfect giant waves. It is the largest underwater canyon in Europe, about 170 kilometers along the coast, reaching a depth of 5,000 meters.

Hiking in the Natural Cliffs of São Martinho do Porto: The Hidden Treasure of the Center

This is one of those routes that combine all the ingredients to make it unforgettable, such as amazing landscapes, history, and adrenaline. You will start the activity on the marginal avenue, in front of the Baía Azul campsite, and set off to discover the historical remains of this region. 

São Martinho do Porto is a typical Portuguese holiday resort in that everyone in Portugal knows about it but no one in the rest of the world has even heard of it. As a consequence of this, São Martinho do Porto remains a fantastic and unique spot. Set in an almost perfectly scallop-shaped bay, with twin headlands guarding the entrance to the Atlantic Ocean, the crescent of beach stretches from the mouth of the Tornada River to the town at the northern end. At the far end, the beach is backed by extensive dunes becoming increasingly built up as you near the other. 

The sea here is virtually always calm as the bay is very sheltered (the polar opposite of the neighboring rival Beach of Nazare). Seen from far, from the bay of S. Martinho do Porto, we have a more concrete idea of its length, about 200 meters, and its surroundings with the mouth of the Tornada River, where the dune becomes a cliff to the ocean, until it closes the "shell of S. Martinho do Porto". Part of the dune is made of granite and its size was reached around 100,000 years ago when the winds carried sand from the lagoons that existed between Óbidos and Nazaré.

Total distance: 6 km

Difficulty: Moderate

Estimated time for the hike: 3h

Important to bring: Suitable footwear (mountain boots or rigid-soled sneakers); Waterproof windbreaker; Sunscreen, sunglasses, and hat; Snacks